The Eastern end of the Roman wall is, fittingly, at a town called Wallsend. It sits on a bluff above the Tyne River, about five miles inland from the open sea. But if you are the type of person who wants to walk the entirety of Hadrian’s Wall across England, you’re probably also the kind of person who needs to see both coasts.
It is you and the crag. You and the wind. You and the tiny Alpine flower that’s found a sheltered crack to grow in. No guidebook can prepare you for that. This is a series of lessons I learned walking across a small island.